Retinal or Retinol: Which Is More Effective for the Skin, and Is It Worth Changing Your Routine?

Until recently, retinol was considered an almost essential ingredient in anti-aging skincare. Today, it is increasingly being compared with retinal: cosmetic brands are launching new serums, offering improved formulas, and promising faster results. Sometimes it may seem that retinol has become outdated and retinal has come to replace it. But is there any reason to switch from a product that works well just because a new favorite has appeared on the cosmetics market? And is retinal really more effective?

The difference between these ingredients is more interesting than advertising claims may suggest. And the results of clinical studies allow us to look at it from a practical perspective.

Retinal and retinol: how they differ and how they work

Retinol and retinal (Retinal, or Retinaldehyde) belong to the retinoid family — derivatives of vitamin A used to improve skin texture, reduce signs of photoaging, and correct certain imperfections.

Both ingredients take part in the same biochemical process. Retinol is converted into retinal, and retinal is converted into retinoic acid, which binds to specific cell receptors and influences the expression of genes related to skin renewal and function.

This is where the popular comparison begins. Retinal needs one conversion step to become retinoic acid, while retinol needs two. That is why retinal is often described as faster and stronger. There is biochemical logic to this explanation. However, the speed at which a molecule is converted is not the same as the speed at which wrinkles disappear. The result is influenced by concentration, the stability of the active ingredient, its delivery system, the composition of the cream or serum, and consistency of use.

Why retinal has become so popular

Retinal is not new to cosmetology. Its properties have been studied for decades, but in recent years it has become one of the most prominent ingredients in anti-aging skincare. There are several reasons for this, and not all of them are related to scientific discoveries.

The first is the development of cosmetic technologies. Retinoids are difficult to use in formulas because of their sensitivity to light, oxygen, and temperature. This problem is well known to manufacturers of retinol products, but retinal also needs protection from degradation. Modern encapsulation technologies, active-ingredient delivery systems, and protective packaging have expanded the possibilities for creating cosmetics with retinal. The development of such technologies is discussed, in particular, in a 2024 scientific review.

The second reason is a feature of the molecule itself that works well for marketing. One conversion step instead of two is an argument that is easy to explain even to someone far from cosmetic chemistry. For the consumer, it sounds convincing: fewer conversions mean faster results. This is how a complex biochemical process turned into a clear advertising advantage.

The third reason is the changing skincare market itself. Retinol has long become a familiar ingredient, and shoppers who already know it are looking for new options. Retinal turned out to be a convenient answer to this demand: a familiar retinoid family, a different molecule, new formulas, and the promise of more visible skincare results.

That is how retinal found itself at the intersection of technological development, interest in active ingredients, and successful promotion. But behind the appealing story of a new favorite lies a much more interesting question: what does it actually show in clinical studies?

What clinical studies show about retinal and retinol

The effectiveness of cosmetics can be discussed in different ways. Manufacturers like before-and-after photos and customer reviews. Researchers, however, measure specific changes: wrinkle depth, texture, hydration, elasticity, and indicators of skin structure. Retinol has a longer history of clinical use. Retinal also has human studies behind it, including a direct comparison of the two ingredients. Let’s look at three studies whose results are especially interesting for practical skincare choices.

A direct comparison from 2021: retinal outperformed retinol on several indicators

In 2021, Korean researchers published a randomized study involving 23 volunteers in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Its distinctive feature was that retinal and retinol were compared on different halves of the same person’s face. A cream with retinal in a special multilamellar vesicle delivery system was applied to one half of the face, and a cream with retinol to the other. Concentrations of 0.05% or 0.1% were used. Over eight weeks, the researchers measured wrinkle depth around the eyes, hydration, elasticity, facial contours, and dermal density.

After eight weeks, all measured indicators improved statistically significantly on both sides of the face. In other words, both retinol and retinal demonstrated clinical effectiveness over the same period. But the side treated with retinal showed better results for most objective indicators. In particular, the researchers recorded a more pronounced improvement in wrinkle depth, hydration, elasticity, and facial contours. Differences in dermal density did not reach statistical significance.

This is a strong result in favor of retinal. Moreover, it was obtained using instrumental measurements, not just the participants’ subjective impressions. However, there is one detail worth knowing before buying. In this study, retinal was contained in multilamellar vesicles — special structures designed to deliver the active ingredient. In other words, the researchers demonstrated the advantage of a specific retinal formula, not a universal superiority of any retinal over any retinol.

For consumers, this is probably an even more useful conclusion. It is not enough simply to see the word Retinal on a label. How exactly the manufacturer formulated the product matters.

Source: Kim et al., 2021. The efficacy and safety of multilamellar vesicle containing retinaldehyde: A randomized, split-face controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. PubMed.

Retinal 0.05% vs 0.1%: is a higher concentration always better?

A 2018 study involved 40 women who used creams with retinal at concentrations of 0.05% or 0.1% for three months. The results were assessed using instrumental measurements of texture, hydration, transepidermal water loss, and melanin index.

After three months, both concentrations produced a noticeable improvement in skin condition. And here is what is interesting: for some parameters, the results were very similar.

The difference between the concentrations for texture, hydration, and moisture loss was not statistically significant. Therefore, the study did not show a convincing advantage of 0.1% over 0.05% for these parameters.

When it comes to pigmentation, however, the picture is slightly different. In the 0.1% retinal group, the melanin index decreased by a statistically significant 6.5% compared with baseline. This is an interesting result for the higher concentration.

It should be noted that both creams were well tolerated.

The practical conclusion is simple: if your goal is to make the skin smoother and improve texture and hydration, you do not necessarily need to look for the highest percentage of retinal right away. A concentration of 0.05% also showed good results. Choosing a stronger product makes sense when linked to specific skin needs — primarily pigmentation.

Source: Kwon et al., 2018. Efficacy and safety of retinaldehyde 0.1% and 0.05% creams used to treat photoaged skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. PubMed.

Retinol: not only wrinkle reduction, but also changes in skin structure

Retinol became one of the best-known anti-aging skincare ingredients long before retinal’s current rise in popularity. And the reason was not just cosmetic promises.

In 2007, Archives of Dermatology published a study involving 36 people over the age of 80. The average age of participants was 87. A lotion with 0.4% retinol was applied to the skin of one forearm, while the same product without retinol was applied to the other. The procedure was performed up to three times a week for 24 weeks. The researchers wanted to test whether retinol could influence natural skin aging, not only changes caused by sun exposure.

The result was clear. On a nine-point scale, the severity of fine wrinkles in the area treated with retinol decreased by an average of 1.64 points. In the control area, the change was only 0.08 points. In the 23 participants who completed the full course, the reduction in fine wrinkles began to appear after just four weeks and continued throughout the study.

But the most important findings came from laboratory analysis of skin samples. In the areas where retinol was used, levels of glycosaminoglycans increased — molecules that help tissues retain water. Researchers also recorded an increase in markers of type I procollagen, a precursor of collagen. These changes were confirmed during analysis of small subgroups of participants from whom the relevant samples were taken.

In other words, the improvement in the skin’s appearance was accompanied by changes in its structural components. This explains why retinol can influence not only surface smoothness but also the signs of natural age-related skin aging.

With this regimen, irritation still occurred: some participants stopped using the product early because of itching or irritation. This is an important detail, especially when dealing with very thin and mature skin.

So it is too early to write retinol off. Behind it stand not only decades of popularity, but also studies in which skin changes were evaluated at the cellular and tissue levels.

Source: Kafi et al., 2007. Improvement of Naturally Aged Skin With Vitamin A (Retinol). Archives of Dermatology. JAMA Network.

Is retinal really gentler than retinol?

Retinal is often advertised as a more effective yet gentler alternative to retinol. But do studies confirm that it causes irritation less often?

In the direct comparison from 2021 discussed above, both formulas were well tolerated, and the researchers recorded no adverse events. Good tolerability of creams with 0.05% and 0.1% retinal was also observed in the three-month 2018 study.

So retinal can provide a noticeable effect without pronounced irritation. But these results do not prove that it is always gentler than retinol. Tolerability depends on concentration, the product’s overall composition, frequency of application, and the individual skin response.

If retinol has previously caused burning or severe peeling, switching to retinal should be viewed as an opportunity to try a different formula, not as a guaranteed way to avoid irritation. Sometimes it is enough to reduce the retinoid concentration or how often you use it.

By the way, burning and peeling do not mean that a retinoid is working better. There is no point in tolerating constant irritation for the sake of a result that can be achieved with a more comfortable skincare routine.

What if you need a retinoid not for wrinkles, but for acne?

Retinoids are used not only for age-related changes. They influence skin keratinization processes and help prevent the formation of comedones — clogged hair follicles that can become the basis for the development of acne lesions.

Retinal has also been studied for this type of skincare. In a small 2021 study, 23 participants with mild to moderate acne used a nanoemulsion with 0.05% retinal for four weeks. After just two weeks, the number of open and closed comedones had decreased, and by the end of the study, a reduction in sebum production was also recorded.

This is a promising result for cosmetic care of skin prone to comedones. At the same time, the study was small and had no control group. For persistent inflammatory acne, it is more appropriate to focus on dermatological treatment, including topical retinoids with better-confirmed anti-acne efficacy, such as adapalene or tretinoin.

Should you switch from retinol to retinal?

Imagine a familiar situation. You have been using a retinol serum for several months. Your skin has become smoother, fine lines are less visible, and there is no irritation. Then you see an ad for retinal promising a faster and more pronounced effect. Of course, you want to try the new product. Especially when its benefits are explained not just with beautiful words, but with biochemistry and study results. But will you get more from another product? Not necessarily.

If retinol works well and you are happy with the result, there is no need to switch to retinal. Skin does not evaluate how new an ingredient is. What matters to it is the real activity of the formula, consistency of use, and the ability to maintain a comfortable routine. It is a different matter if your current product does not suit you in terms of texture, tolerability, or results. In that case, it makes sense to consider retinal as an alternative. To make the choice easier, we have gathered the main scenarios.

Mini guide: retinol or retinal — which should you choose?

How to choose a retinal product

First, look at the concentration. For a first introduction, you can consider products with a lower retinal content, including 0.05%. If you already tolerate retinoids well, you can consider other concentrations too, taking into account the characteristics of the specific product.

The formula and packaging are no less important. Retinoids are sensitive to external factors, so it is worth paying attention to whether the manufacturer explains how the ingredient is stabilized, whether opaque or airtight packaging is used, and whether there are data on the effectiveness of the finished product.

In advertising materials, you may come across claims that a certain concentration of retinal is supposedly equivalent to a much higher concentration of retinol. For example, that 0.1% retinal corresponds to 1% retinol. There is no universal ratio of this kind. The result depends on the finished formula, not only on the percentage of the active ingredient.

And one more practical detail: a good retinal product does not necessarily have to be the most expensive in its category. It is much more useful to evaluate its formula, packaging, concentration, and how comfortably it fits into your routine.

How to switch to retinal correctly

Even if your skin is already familiar with retinol, it is better to introduce a new product gradually. Start with two evenings a week, applying the product to dry skin after cleansing, unless the manufacturer’s instructions say otherwise. During this period, it is best to remove your previous retinol product from your routine. There is no practical need to combine both retinoids in the same evening routine: it mainly increases the risk of irritation.

A moisturizer will help maintain skin comfort, and you can gradually increase the frequency of retinal application depending on your skin’s response. In the first weeks, do not rush to combine it with acid peels and other potentially irritating actives. In the morning, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.

Retinoids are not used during pregnancy. If you are planning a pregnancy or breastfeeding, you should discuss this type of skincare with a doctor.

Results should be assessed not after a few applications, but after at least 8–12 weeks of regular use. In studies, this is the period in which noticeable improvements in texture, hydration, and fine wrinkles were achieved. Some changes related to retinol continued to increase over six months.

So is retinal really better?

Retinal has very real advantages supported by clinical studies. It can improve skin texture, hydration, elasticity, and the appearance of fine wrinkles. Modern technologies have made it an interesting alternative to retinol, and the results of individual clinical comparisons give good reason to take it seriously. However, retinol has not become less effective simply because a new favorite has appeared. It is backed by decades of research and practical use.

Retinal is worth attention not because it is fashionable. But switching to it from retinol just because it is fashionable is not necessary at all.

Sources

1. Kim et al. (2021). The efficacy and safety of multilamellar vesicle containing retinaldehyde: A randomized, split-face controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
2. Kwon et al. (2018). Efficacy and safety of retinaldehyde 0.1% and 0.05% creams used to treat photoaged skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
3. Kafi et al. (2007). Improvement of Naturally Aged Skin With Vitamin A (Retinol). Archives of Dermatology.
4. Zhong et al. (2024). Topical retinoids: Novel derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, and combinations to improve chemical instability and skin irritation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
5. Temova Rakuša et al. (2021). Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products.
6. Kim et al. (2021). A pilot study evaluating the efficacy and safety of retinaldehyde-loaded niosomes against mild-to-moderate acne.
7. American Academy of Dermatology. Retinoid or retinol?
8. American Academy of Dermatology. Dermatologist-approved pregnancy skin care.